Step 2

Decode The Shade™

Now the shade side. Every product color will lean cool, neutral, or warm. Learn to spot the lean so you can read every shade you come across.

How to decode the shade

Let's talk color temperature

Just like skin tone, every makeup product has an overall color (red, pink, brown, purple, etc.) and that color will lean towards a cool, neutral, or warm undertone.

Since many makeup products come in a much wider range of colors than skin, you are no longer just looking for orangey warmth. You are also looking for blue coolness.

  • A red lipstick leaning toward blue or pink → cooler. Leaning toward orange or coral → warmer.
  • A pink leaning toward lilac/berry → cooler. Leaning toward peach/coral → warmer.
  • A brown leaning toward mauve/plum → cooler. Leaning toward caramel/orange → warmer.

You can or move on to the next step.

Spot the lean through comparison

For skin-toned products like foundation or concealer: look for either the presence or absence of orangey warmth, just as you did when determining your skin's undertone. Orange = warm. No orange = cool.

Foundation and concealer shades compared across cool, neutral and warm undertones

For non skin-toned products: look for the presence of orange (warmth) OR blue (coolness).

Comparison is your best friend. Until you have enough experience to spot the lean automatically, use the color comparison charts below to compare your potential products with.

Comparison chart of makeup shades in cool, neutral and warm columns across eight color families: pinks, reds, berries and plums, corals and peaches, browns, nudes and neutrals, grays and taupes, and metallics
Eight color families, each shown leaning cool, neutral and warm.

Helpful hint #1

Try Melissa's sheer-out trick

A shade at full strength sometimes hides its undertone. Swatch it, then sheer it out with your finger. As the color thins, the undertone beneath rises to the surface.

A red shade sheering out to reveal a cool base, beside a red shade sheering out to reveal a warm base
  • Blue rises as it thins. That shade is cool.
  • Orange rises as it thins. That shade is warm.

Helpful hint #2

Compare shades side by side

The undertone of any shade becomes far more obvious when you place another shade beside it. Whether looking at digital swatches or testing product in person, try comparing several at a time, right next to one another.

Several makeup shades swatched directly beside one another for comparison

A little deeper

The color theory behind the lean

Determining the color temperature of a color comes entirely from color theory and relies on the color wheel.

A full color wheel showing every hue with its tints and shades

When we look at the color wheel as a whole, it is divided into warm colors and cool colors, however, color is not that simple.

Because color is a spectrum, each color on the wheel will start to transform as it gets closer to the color next to it. A green that becomes more yellow becomes warmer. A green that becomes more blue becomes cooler because yellow = warm and blue = cool.

Aside from this, makeup shades are not pure. They are a mix of pigments! So any time cooler pigments are mixed in in a significant enough amount, it will skew that shade cooler. Any time we mix in warmer pigments in a significant enough amount, that shade will skew warmer.

Pink pigment plus purple making magenta, a cool pink, and pink pigment plus orange making coral, a warm pink

This is the basis of 'spotting the lean' in our makeup products.